Trek to Kedarnath part 2

We began around 2:30 pm eager, anxious and full of excitement to the journey that is ahead. I was pleasantly surprised to find a rock paved trail but more then disgusted by the amount of donkey, cow and sheep shit that lined the trail. At first I was so careful, step by step avoiding as much shit as I could and now I am renaming this “the shit trail to Kedarnath”. I wish I could report that it was pure bliss up the mountain but that would be a terrible lie.

"the shit trail"

I suffered in so many ways and struggled and wanted to give up, turn around, hop on a donkey, hire a Sherpa, you name it. It actually amazed me how many Indians where either on a mule ….. or wait where being carried by four very small Nepalanese men in what is chariot of sorts. It is literally the most interesting I have ever seen. If you can imagine walking straight uphill for at least six hours carrying some fat Indian woman or man on this chariot as they just sit back and enjoy the view. If I was not already agitated this sent me over the top. And I thought I had it hard. They were my source of inspiration. Rashek later told us they make “good money” and every year come from the Nepal for the Yatra season. I thought to myself “good money” – are you kidding me you could not pay me enough to do that … I would not subject myself to that misery for even on million dollars – no joke. I am weak.

But I kept walking step by step. Scott was sure that at some moment I would pass him on a horse! Or at least with a Sherpa by my side. In the rain, through the shit, dodging donkeys, horses, sherpas, cows and other pilgrims coming down and going up I weaved through the obstacles physical and mental. At points I wanted to cry, scream out – why, why does it have to rain, why is it so cold, why is this trail so nasty? At times I was just angry – I’ve traveled so far, taken sacred time off to vacation and visit one of the holiest shrines on the planet and this is what I get? But then I put myself in check, your life is much too comfortable and you’ve forgotten what’s it is like to really struggle yet let your heart be full of joy. So, I return to my chanting “om namah shivaya” … I listen to the pilgrims pass by and offer encouragement calling out “bole, bole” (another name for Shiva). As the only westerner, along with Scott, to walk this trail everyone smiled and greeted us with joy and hospitality.

At the very top (3500 meters/11, 482 feet), soaked and numb from the cold in the dark of the night we arrived just in time as I could barely walk anymore. With our guide, we found a place to stay and it seemed like a five star hotel at that point and when the hot bucket of water came it was like nectar on my skin. After a warm meal we headed straight to bed, deep inside my sleeping I climbed in, zipped up was in deep REM within minutes hoping that the million mosquitoes and other unknown bugs would not make me their midnight snack. I prayed.