Kalimath Temple and Triyuginarayan (where Shiva and Parvati where married)

India Independence Day

So have I mentioned that it is monsoon season here? Actually it is supposed to be the tail end of monsoon season but this year it seems to be in full force. Monsoon started one month late and decided to go full force one week before our arrival.

Ignorance is either bliss or hell depending on how you view it. As a very comfortable and somewhat ignorant westerner I never really thought about how lots of rain dumping on the Himalayas may impact the already treacherous roads. As it turns out the repercussion is massive. Between negotiating rainfall on unpaved roads, waterfalls that spontaneously appear and render the roads barely passable; each hairpin turn on the narrow roads was both breathtaking and heart stopping. I now have developed a deep reverence for what it is like to live here in these beautiful and remote Himalayan villages situated over 5000 feet (and that is the start), where Mother Nature is continuously showing her power and strength.

The road to Kedarnath.

Our first stop on the way to Kedarnath – a very old Kali temple: is Kalimtah. Not like the grandiose temples of the South, this small, quaint temple dating back to the Puranic Period was nestled between the Kali Ganga and Mandakini River.

Kalimath Temple

Legend states that it was here that Kali retreated to this spot and submerged herself into the Earth after defeating the famous Demon Raktabija. Interestingly enough, the shrine does not contain the image of Kali but rather her long black hair hangs from one corner and a large hole in the ground where she disappeared into the Earth. I figured it was good for me to gather some Kali energy before embarking on the long 14 km trek to Kedarnath. I prayed for strength to conquer the mountain and release all of my fears of the unknown of what is to come on this adventure. This urban girl never strays too far from a spa, luxurious baths and all of the comforts of Western living.

Along with the necessary warrior energy one must develop through these tapasyan practices, we must also worship the great lovers – the infamous couple of Shiva and Parvati. This offers a perfect harmony within the spirit: that of love and power. And for me learning how to soften the heart and surrender to the great love is an energy I need to bow to as often as I can. Again this shrine/temple was in the middle of nowhere as far as I was concerned. It seemed strange to me that such an auspicious place was in such an unassuming location. It is hidden from the world – only to be found by those “in the know”. And not that I know much of anything, but lucky for us Rashek, our guide, was fully connected to show us the way.

At the top after visiting Shiva and Parvati's marriage site.

Now, armed with love and the warrior spirit we headed to Sonaprayag for a late lunch to nourish the body and soul before the long and I mean LONG trek. Little did I know this was the meal that would stain a very, long almost infinite walk. After the usual rice, dal, potatoes and chapatti we headed for the last stop for motor cars: Gorikund (2400 meters/6,560 feet) This is basically a huge parking lot full of pilgrims, buses, vans, SUV’s readying for the journey ahead. As we prepared our backpacks a light rain begins to fall. I knew we had 14 km (8.6 miles) which does not seem like a whole lot to walk at first but add: a 45 lb backpack, rain (and sometimes a downpour), plus climbing up an additional 5000 feet...those measly 14 km seem like 30 km. But again, none of this was computing in my mind as I was living the moment step by step following along with the plan and full of devotion.