After morning puja at Kedarnath Temple, breakfast and another wonderful warm bucket shower we packed up our things and proceeded down the mountain. During breakfast I asked Scott what his deal was all night: he was up and down, up and down. I, half asleep, kept asking him what he was doing and his reply was bathroom…
Well turns out we had a visitor in our room – a Himalayan mouse. I wish I had a picture of these creatures as I was fortunate enough to see one on the way down. They are quite large, pointed ears, no tail and very round. They are cute and quite docile. All night one visited our room in and out … in and out. He was taunting and teasing Scott and brave enough to jump on the night stand 6 feet from my head. I thank the goddess I am a heavy sleeper – or I would have freaked to have this creature jump inside my sleeping for Scott feared that was where he was headed. Turned out after struggling half the night, Scott figured out he was after our Prasad-Poker chip candy. Go figure.
The descent was so much more agreeable then the climb up. Om Namah Shivaya. And all our prayers paid off because as we reached the bottom the sky roared and a strong rainfall was upon us – but we were safe inside the car.
We stopped for lunch at Sonprayag which is where I received my first chapatti making lesson and was able to watch closely how these simple and delicious meals are prepared. What I love of this land is that you eat what the land offers. So if it does not grow locally you don’t eat. Can’t really ask for broccoli in my mixed vegetable rice or cauliflower … “no not possible now, not in season” is the common response. Love it! This is truly locally grown only communities.
The next, most astonishing part of all this is that not once since this trip has started have I seen a single woman cooking. Everywhere we go the men are working the kitchen and doing all the house cleaning. It is quite extraordinary and hopeful for mankind worldwide!
The four-hour car ride to Ukimath was typical and spectacular. The roads are basically cut along the side of the mountain so you have the mountain to one side and a deep valley to the other with the river running along side. These single-lane roads are why it is so dangerous to travel during monsoon season and after 8pm (which we never do) as mud landslides are a commonality and all it takes is one landslide to shut down the road for hours or days and you are just stuck on the other side. And the huge trucks that fly around each corner without regard to who may be on the other side of the turn is even more disturbing. I am so thankful our driver offered thanks to the divine at every near death collision. His hands to his heart, third eyes, right ear, left ear. The common mudra dance to the divine spirit.
By the time we arrived at the GMV (government) Guest House it was dinnertime and great news. When we have power and hot water! This was a delight as this is now base camp for the next three nights.
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