Tuganath – 3rd Kedar

This morning we headed for another long hike up the mountain to areas that are unreachable once the Himalayan snows set in. We drove through the Kedarnath National Forest to reach our destination as our car weaved through precarious terrain I marveled at the pristine Himalyan forest all round me. We reached the customary chai stand at which our driver released us into what seemed to me the wild of the jungle. I don’t question much while here I just put my trust I God and Rakesh and follow along.

Tuganath Temple

Truthfully I am not feeling so energized, I had no idea why I just felt so tired and winded and absolutely exhausted. The site that we are trekking to is one of the most revered sites by the great ages and Rishis beyond our time. This is the very place that Swami Rama’s guru left his body! Yet part of me just wants to give up within the first 10 steps. Here I am navigating a very muddy landscape, not trail in site just mud, streams and rocks and wondering how I am going to make this 12 km hike.

But alas! A rock trail appears upon the horizon – glorious. There are other pilgrims on this trail – but very few and not a dropping of shit or donkeys in sight to negotiate. Through the rain we continue and again this trail uphill was extremely strenuous. I could not understand, as I was not carrying a backpack, why my heart was beating wildly in my chest, lungs gasping for air and mind going wild with rage and disappointment. Am I this out of shape –really? Again, can’t the sun come out just for one second … please?

Steadily I persevered and learned a very important lesson: the heavier my thoughts the heavier the walk, the more internal resistance I cultivate the heavier my legs will feel. So be light, breathe steady and peacefully and allow your mind to be light … look around and see the beauty that surrounds you there is not other place like this in the world.

Upon reaching the top the rain increased and the last 20 steps were so steep that we decided to dry off inside one of the small chai tents and wait for the rain to subdue before making our offerings at the temple. As we sit I observe and ponder how these devotees just live here in the middle of the mountain – no running water, electricity, heat so simply and happy. Everyone literally blessed out. Is it the lack of oxygen, the hashish they like to smoke or just God crazy? They set up camp every year after the winter/snow season is over. They bring their cattle, set up homes , just to break it all down and head back down the mountain when the snow comes.

I also made friends with the cutest Himalayan dog ever. I really want to bring one of these dogs back with me as they are amazing and adorable. They wear collars with spikes on them to fight the leopards, foxes - you name it, to protect the sheep, cattle and themselves. They are fierce and endearing all at the same time.

But bringing one home is not possible as Rakesh told me they cannot survive in lower altitudes or hot weather – they just die. Oh so sad! This is their home and where they belong. Another lesson: you can’t deny culture and nature.

After temple puja and offerings guided by the local priest we returned back to our chai stand and cooked pakora over and open fire and dried off some more before hiking back down. I later discovered that I am not out of shape and my near heart attack and panic attack were all normal – I just hiked to over 16,000 feet!!! Oh I felt so much better about myself. Again clueless to what I am signing up for and surrendering one step at a time.

After my pakora 101 cooking class!