Making Pakora !

Jai Hanuman - no rain!

A night rain free … we awoke with deep hopes and enthusiasm. Jai Hanuman! Today was our big sightseeing day of Yoshimath. I had no idea there were so many juicy temples to visit. After a small stroll down the very busy main street to browse in the local shops we began the temple tour.

Today is Monday, the day for Lord Shiva, and since August is also Shiva month it was a very important day in temple. It is also the last Monday that is celebrated within this holy month. Our first stop Shankaracharya Math. This is a most important place as this is where the first Shankaracharya, Philosopher/Saint, lived in meditation as an incarnation of Lord Shiva. He is a revered figure and savior of Indian’s Sanatam Darsan.

We also visited a temple where the Sixth Incarnation of Vishnu as Narshima came to defeat a terrible Demon, Hirnyakashayap who was brutalizing the kingdom for worshiping anyone other then him. So at this very place it is said that Narshima defeated this demon. So it was here that I made my offerings to release that which is negative and destructive in my life that is leading me away from the path of Truth and Light. Afterwards we took a short drive further into the mountains to a natural sulfur spring and the hopes of seeing the famous Nanda Devi Peak(next year’s trekking site). It could have been semi-anti climactic but the drive as always was full of adventure. The short 10 km drive took us 40 minutes as we had to negotiate narrow passes and areas to heavy with mud from landslides that the car miraculously made it without begin stuck. There were workers busily trying to shovel (yes shovel) the 3 feet of mud that covered the road and huge boulders were being hacked with a pick axe … what could have taken 20 minutes in the US with heavy machinery will take days here with manual labor but as Rakesh pointed out this offers many work thats need and these machines as I put it would render many without work and so once again my Western impositions never serve anyone! Upon reaching the spring – there it was on the side of the road … very unassuming spewing out very hot water releasing steam hot and wide enough to give us all steam facials!

Hot Spring

But that was not the magic for me … the magical part was that upon parking the car to see this natural wonder a rainbow formed just a few feet away. Clear as can be I could see both the beginning and end of the rainbow and as followed one end from the mountainside the other end fell into the Dhauli Ganga originating in Tibet.

my rainbow!

This road ends in the mountain range separating Tibet and India, which is now China and why there is such a strong military presence due to the China’s constant attack and infiltration into the mountain range. China apparently is not happy enough to have massacred the Tibetans and taken their land as now they continue to push further into the Himalayan Mountain range. I could continue with all the rage and hate I have against China and their evil ways but I won’t mar this delightful blog. Rakesh told us that before the road and passage between India and Tibet was a very friendly border and one could easily just go back and forth but now all China wants to do is fight! No surprise there. The rainbow was breathtaking and a good omen of sunny days to come!

End of the rainbow

Continuing our trek

Today was rather uneventful in the traveling department as we needed just one day of no movement- and hanging out at the rest house was all but boring. We spent the day living the simple, relaxed mountain life. Very rejuvenating! I actually read a novel by one of my favorite authors – Robert Ludlum purchased on my new I-Pad and enjoyed watching the staff chase the local horse that would come trampling through the manicured lawn and eat the grass all day long.

Later that night we found out that a school in the adjacent village had fallen off the cliff due to heavy rains causing a mud slide … Om Namah Shivaya ~ 18 children died. This is all crazier then I could have ever imagined.

The journey continues. Due to heavy rain fall and tricky road conditions we had to abandon our plans for 2 intense treks in to the mountain that would put us away from any villages living in tents and living purely in nature. It was a bummer but if there’s anything I have learned in India is not to attach to plans, time and how you think things should go. This wonderful land teaches you that this moment is what you have and don’t waste it or wish for it to be different because if you do it will surely turn against you like a great big demon. So I surrendered and let Scott and Rakesh make plans for our last 4 days. We departed for the mountain town of Auli where there is a Ski Resort. I had vision of an Indian Squaw Valley … haha! That is humorous beyond. But Scott and I had a good time wishing and wondering what an Indian ski lodge looks like. Rakesh was excited as this area will offer grandiose views of many peaks and one in particular –Nanda Devi Peak which will be next year’s destination. It is also near Yoshimath a holy Vishnu temple is here and also close to Valley of Flowers and Bradinath. We are going further North very close to the China – Indian border and this was all to evident as we approached and noticed a considerable military presence, training mountaineering camps and stations.

At first, Rakesh suggested we stay in what he believed to be nice huts. Well the word hut already made me suspicious but I went along with it. At this point my high maintenance urban desires are somewhat diminished but just a slither of luxury like a clean room, no musty rugs is all I am asking for. The car could not make it all the way up to where the huts where and I felt this was a sign – on the outside they did not look very promising at all. Behind us I noticed that there was some sort of ski lodge hotel. This looked much more promising. So I took matters into my control and walked over to the hotel to check things out. Of course the outside always looks much fancier then the inside – I laughed knowing that this is typical of India ... nice shiny outside but not so shiny on the inside. So in this large complex we settled in and literally are the ONLY people staying here. It rained all night ~ strong rains poured down. I prayed and prayed please let the sun shine through tomorrow morning.

The rain had subsided to a soft drizzle by early morning and eagerly I awoke to prepare to visit the small, not so ancient Hanuman temple that was a short hike up the mountain. As I walked outside I could see the peaks peering out over the horizon as the clouds rolled by past me. Thrilled to find myself all alone, not a priest or pilgrim in site I made my way in and sat before Hanuman in meditation and mantra. For the first time I was able to worship in private, in my very own temple. It was here I realized that I need Hanuman to blow the clouds away; He will surely rally to the cause. Oh Hanuman with you big heart and strong chest blow these clouds and rain North, far, far away.

At breakfast the sun started to come through and there was a glimmer of hope for us! Yes, maybe today will be a rain free day. I am an avid sun worshiper (Suryanarayan) and from there we all realized that Hanuman was the man and the Hanuman Chalisa was chanted full-on! We waited 2 hours for the sun to continue to break through and dry things up a bit so we could hike around this mountaintop.

We gathered ready for the climb and Rakesh brought a new device to help my trekking efforts … a walking stick. Hmm, I have never use a walking stick before. I am either concerned for what’s ahead or maybe this is just something to divert my attention.

The terrain was less then easy to maneuver, as it was wet, muddy and streams abundantly flowed in all directions. We were making our way to a meadow. Not sure where that was but I followed along. I soon realized the walking stick was going to be my savior from falling on the very muddy ground below me. A new epiphany about myself – I am clean FREAK! Really, I had no idea how obsessed I am about being neat and clean. I know some of you already had that figured out, but I amused myself trying not to muddy my pants and today of all days I had the brilliant idea of wearing my new keane’s as I knew there was water to negotiate. However, my mind never computed the mud that would enter through the openings. I grew increasingly frustrated by the fact that my feet were squishy and muddy and my wonderful bright orange be present pants were turning brown and yucky. I kept trying to be neat and pristine as I maneuvered each step but I soon realized my terrible neurosis and how it was really working against me.

So once again, I had to relinquish this control to be neat and pretty and surrender to nature and just be muddy and dirty. Through surrender I could release myself and be peaceful deep inside the forest where the trees, leaves, ferns were moist, vibrant with life. I found myself inside a fuzzy green forest wonderland, an enchanted forest: the lush foliage, the sounds so alive, earth grounding and cooling. We never made it all the way to the meadow as negotiating the non train was difficult at best and after two hours I knew the return would not be so amazing and my Pitta hunger was starting in and that in itself was not going to make for a happy descent back to home base. Satisfied with our adventure we turned around and headed back to our hotel and now it was already 3 pm and I was starving!

We are the only ones still in the hotel – comical and eerie at the same time – I had a bit of a meltdown when we returned and the staff had not gone to the market to pick up food supplies for our meals. Hungry, muddy, dirty, and tired does not make this Spa Girl happy at all! So I stomped off after sharing my frustation with everyone, allowed the hot water shower to pour over my body and searched for my emergency power bars. At that point, a very shaken and mortified Rakesh peered through my door and told me that the staff had magically conjured up some snacks and by tonight I would have all menu items available for ordering. I apologized for my deranged Pitta state but he understood and once I explained I was not mad at him at all – we were all best friends again.

Tuganath – 3rd Kedar

This morning we headed for another long hike up the mountain to areas that are unreachable once the Himalayan snows set in. We drove through the Kedarnath National Forest to reach our destination as our car weaved through precarious terrain I marveled at the pristine Himalyan forest all round me. We reached the customary chai stand at which our driver released us into what seemed to me the wild of the jungle. I don’t question much while here I just put my trust I God and Rakesh and follow along.

Tuganath Temple

Truthfully I am not feeling so energized, I had no idea why I just felt so tired and winded and absolutely exhausted. The site that we are trekking to is one of the most revered sites by the great ages and Rishis beyond our time. This is the very place that Swami Rama’s guru left his body! Yet part of me just wants to give up within the first 10 steps. Here I am navigating a very muddy landscape, not trail in site just mud, streams and rocks and wondering how I am going to make this 12 km hike.

But alas! A rock trail appears upon the horizon – glorious. There are other pilgrims on this trail – but very few and not a dropping of shit or donkeys in sight to negotiate. Through the rain we continue and again this trail uphill was extremely strenuous. I could not understand, as I was not carrying a backpack, why my heart was beating wildly in my chest, lungs gasping for air and mind going wild with rage and disappointment. Am I this out of shape –really? Again, can’t the sun come out just for one second … please?

Steadily I persevered and learned a very important lesson: the heavier my thoughts the heavier the walk, the more internal resistance I cultivate the heavier my legs will feel. So be light, breathe steady and peacefully and allow your mind to be light … look around and see the beauty that surrounds you there is not other place like this in the world.

Upon reaching the top the rain increased and the last 20 steps were so steep that we decided to dry off inside one of the small chai tents and wait for the rain to subdue before making our offerings at the temple. As we sit I observe and ponder how these devotees just live here in the middle of the mountain – no running water, electricity, heat so simply and happy. Everyone literally blessed out. Is it the lack of oxygen, the hashish they like to smoke or just God crazy? They set up camp every year after the winter/snow season is over. They bring their cattle, set up homes , just to break it all down and head back down the mountain when the snow comes.

I also made friends with the cutest Himalayan dog ever. I really want to bring one of these dogs back with me as they are amazing and adorable. They wear collars with spikes on them to fight the leopards, foxes - you name it, to protect the sheep, cattle and themselves. They are fierce and endearing all at the same time.

But bringing one home is not possible as Rakesh told me they cannot survive in lower altitudes or hot weather – they just die. Oh so sad! This is their home and where they belong. Another lesson: you can’t deny culture and nature.

After temple puja and offerings guided by the local priest we returned back to our chai stand and cooked pakora over and open fire and dried off some more before hiking back down. I later discovered that I am not out of shape and my near heart attack and panic attack were all normal – I just hiked to over 16,000 feet!!! Oh I felt so much better about myself. Again clueless to what I am signing up for and surrendering one step at a time.

After my pakora 101 cooking class!

Day in Ukhimath

Lunch and short hike Tala to Deoria Tal (lake)

Ukimath is a very small village situated on 1900 meters and is considered the substitute spot for when Kedarnath is closed between October and April due to heavy snowfall. The legend goes that Usha and Anirudh (the grandson of Krishna) disciple here and the one of the Kings did penance and meditation until Lord Shiva appeared before him. It is considered a Tantric pilgrim site as well as many of the Tantras were recited here and worshiped here. This was all translated to me when we met the temple priest for Puja.

Lunch at Sari

After breakfast we headed to Sari – an even smaller village where we hiked up 3 km to the beautiful Deoria Tal where some of Gandhi's ashes were offered long ago due to his devotion to Lord Shiva and love of Kedarnath Valley. The rain broke just long enough for us to enjoy the hike and the clouds seem to part just for us to witness the beautiful Himalayan peaks off in the distance. It was magical. Due to the rain and weather we were mostly alone here in the quiet but surrounded by horses and the local Nandi (black bull). Nandi took a liking to me as he seemed to follow me around for a bit but then the yummy pasture grass was much more interesting then my roving about.

Little girls in the town of Sari

Descend from Kedarnath – travel to Ukhimath

After morning puja at Kedarnath Temple, breakfast and another wonderful warm bucket shower we packed up our things and proceeded down the mountain. During breakfast I asked Scott what his deal was all night: he was up and down, up and down. I, half asleep, kept asking him what he was doing and his reply was bathroom…

Well turns out we had a visitor in our room – a Himalayan mouse. I wish I had a picture of these creatures as I was fortunate enough to see one on the way down. They are quite large, pointed ears, no tail and very round. They are cute and quite docile. All night one visited our room in and out … in and out. He was taunting and teasing Scott and brave enough to jump on the night stand 6 feet from my head. I thank the goddess I am a heavy sleeper – or I would have freaked to have this creature jump inside my sleeping for Scott feared that was where he was headed. Turned out after struggling half the night, Scott figured out he was after our Prasad-Poker chip candy. Go figure.

The descent was so much more agreeable then the climb up. Om Namah Shivaya. And all our prayers paid off because as we reached the bottom the sky roared and a strong rainfall was upon us – but we were safe inside the car.

We stopped for lunch at Sonprayag which is where I received my first chapatti making lesson and was able to watch closely how these simple and delicious meals are prepared. What I love of this land is that you eat what the land offers. So if it does not grow locally you don’t eat. Can’t really ask for broccoli in my mixed vegetable rice or cauliflower … “no not possible now, not in season” is the common response. Love it! This is truly locally grown only communities.

The next, most astonishing part of all this is that not once since this trip has started have I seen a single woman cooking. Everywhere we go the men are working the kitchen and doing all the house cleaning. It is quite extraordinary and hopeful for mankind worldwide!

The four-hour car ride to Ukimath was typical and spectacular. The roads are basically cut along the side of the mountain so you have the mountain to one side and a deep valley to the other with the river running along side. These single-lane roads are why it is so dangerous to travel during monsoon season and after 8pm (which we never do) as mud landslides are a commonality and all it takes is one landslide to shut down the road for hours or days and you are just stuck on the other side. And the huge trucks that fly around each corner without regard to who may be on the other side of the turn is even more disturbing. I am so thankful our driver offered thanks to the divine at every near death collision. His hands to his heart, third eyes, right ear, left ear. The common mudra dance to the divine spirit.

By the time we arrived at the GMV (government) Guest House it was dinnertime and great news. When we have power and hot water! This was a delight as this is now base camp for the next three nights.

Pictures - Kedarnath

Look for another post on Wednesday!

The view from the trial above - looking down on Kedarnath Village.

Kedarnath Peaks.

Kedarnath Kitchen.

Kedarnath hotel.

Early morning puja - 6am.

My hot water bucket guy - he's from Napal, always smiling and happy. Love him!

Kedarnath

My eyes could barely take in the beauty all around me upon waking. Since we arrived in the dark of the night I had no idea what magic lay all around me. As I walked out all around us were snow-covered peaks: majestic, crisp and pristine.

the beautiful morning view

The early morning sun along with the hustle and bustle for morning puja melted all the pain away from my screaming thighs, knees and back. One look, one breath and yesterday's struggle was beyond worth it. I don’t know if I would have appreciated the divine all around me if I had not endured the journey as I did the day before.

Kedarnath Peaks

Our plans to continue further along the trail to Chorabar Lake – which was a very steep climb to 3900 meters.( approx. 13,000 feet) But upon inquiry and conversation Rashek decided that it was too dangerous for us to continue onward for mudslides and snow avalanches were a strong possibility along the path. So we opted for a shorter trek, but equally beautiful site to a smaller, pure mountain lake. So after a nice morning bucket shower and abhyanga (a modified form) as one does not need to take care of the skin in these high elevations and I was not about to let Vata take over any more then it already had, we were ready to go.

The first few minutes of our uphill climb were difficult and I wondered if I was pushing my limits but then I let my mind be light – no more thought – just breathe, feel and look around. And all was good until a huge waterfall had descended on the path and the crossing over it looked beyond sketch. You know it’s time to worry when the both the guide and your mountain loving partner both take a LONG pause to survey the situation. So shoes come off and hand to hand we walk through resisting the strong pull of the glacier waterfall, making my feet numb and cramped.

the waterfall

I realize from this point on that nothing will come easy – this trip is going to push every physical and mental limit to the max 108 times. As we approached the lake, which is really more like a pond, I noticed to my right the beginning of a glacier. And sure enough this was the glacier opening to the sacred Mandikini River of Kedarnath – water gushing out at full force – fierce and strong.

After our nice picnic the monsoon clouds once again quickly began to move in and we packed our bags to walk back before once again being caught in the rain while trekking. I was so happy, warm and dry that the last thing I wanted to invite into this experience were the qualities of cold and damp upon my skin. We retuned just in time as the sky released another monsoon downpour that we listened and watched with a cup of warm chai around our hands.

Our pond at 17,000 ft.

Later that afternoon with little to do (a real luxury in my life) we pondered upon how to occupy our non-busy selves as both Scott and I laughed at the idea! Is this really happening … time on our hands. Really?

We borrowed a deck of cards from the kitchen staff, used Prasad candy as chips and introduced our Rashek to the wonderful world of Blackjack. I played the role of dealer and beginner’s luck would have it he cleaned both Scott and house out of all our candy. He’s addicted. I think he’s a card shark. Scott was incredulous he’d lost. He hates to loose – I’m glad someone else is experiencing some mental breakthroughs.

Trek to Kedarnath part 2

We began around 2:30 pm eager, anxious and full of excitement to the journey that is ahead. I was pleasantly surprised to find a rock paved trail but more then disgusted by the amount of donkey, cow and sheep shit that lined the trail. At first I was so careful, step by step avoiding as much shit as I could and now I am renaming this “the shit trail to Kedarnath”. I wish I could report that it was pure bliss up the mountain but that would be a terrible lie.

"the shit trail"

I suffered in so many ways and struggled and wanted to give up, turn around, hop on a donkey, hire a Sherpa, you name it. It actually amazed me how many Indians where either on a mule ….. or wait where being carried by four very small Nepalanese men in what is chariot of sorts. It is literally the most interesting I have ever seen. If you can imagine walking straight uphill for at least six hours carrying some fat Indian woman or man on this chariot as they just sit back and enjoy the view. If I was not already agitated this sent me over the top. And I thought I had it hard. They were my source of inspiration. Rashek later told us they make “good money” and every year come from the Nepal for the Yatra season. I thought to myself “good money” – are you kidding me you could not pay me enough to do that … I would not subject myself to that misery for even on million dollars – no joke. I am weak.

But I kept walking step by step. Scott was sure that at some moment I would pass him on a horse! Or at least with a Sherpa by my side. In the rain, through the shit, dodging donkeys, horses, sherpas, cows and other pilgrims coming down and going up I weaved through the obstacles physical and mental. At points I wanted to cry, scream out – why, why does it have to rain, why is it so cold, why is this trail so nasty? At times I was just angry – I’ve traveled so far, taken sacred time off to vacation and visit one of the holiest shrines on the planet and this is what I get? But then I put myself in check, your life is much too comfortable and you’ve forgotten what’s it is like to really struggle yet let your heart be full of joy. So, I return to my chanting “om namah shivaya” … I listen to the pilgrims pass by and offer encouragement calling out “bole, bole” (another name for Shiva). As the only westerner, along with Scott, to walk this trail everyone smiled and greeted us with joy and hospitality.

At the very top (3500 meters/11, 482 feet), soaked and numb from the cold in the dark of the night we arrived just in time as I could barely walk anymore. With our guide, we found a place to stay and it seemed like a five star hotel at that point and when the hot bucket of water came it was like nectar on my skin. After a warm meal we headed straight to bed, deep inside my sleeping I climbed in, zipped up was in deep REM within minutes hoping that the million mosquitoes and other unknown bugs would not make me their midnight snack. I prayed.