Kalimath Temple and Triyuginarayan (where Shiva and Parvati where married)

India Independence Day

So have I mentioned that it is monsoon season here? Actually it is supposed to be the tail end of monsoon season but this year it seems to be in full force. Monsoon started one month late and decided to go full force one week before our arrival.

Ignorance is either bliss or hell depending on how you view it. As a very comfortable and somewhat ignorant westerner I never really thought about how lots of rain dumping on the Himalayas may impact the already treacherous roads. As it turns out the repercussion is massive. Between negotiating rainfall on unpaved roads, waterfalls that spontaneously appear and render the roads barely passable; each hairpin turn on the narrow roads was both breathtaking and heart stopping. I now have developed a deep reverence for what it is like to live here in these beautiful and remote Himalayan villages situated over 5000 feet (and that is the start), where Mother Nature is continuously showing her power and strength.

The road to Kedarnath.

Our first stop on the way to Kedarnath – a very old Kali temple: is Kalimtah. Not like the grandiose temples of the South, this small, quaint temple dating back to the Puranic Period was nestled between the Kali Ganga and Mandakini River.

Kalimath Temple

Legend states that it was here that Kali retreated to this spot and submerged herself into the Earth after defeating the famous Demon Raktabija. Interestingly enough, the shrine does not contain the image of Kali but rather her long black hair hangs from one corner and a large hole in the ground where she disappeared into the Earth. I figured it was good for me to gather some Kali energy before embarking on the long 14 km trek to Kedarnath. I prayed for strength to conquer the mountain and release all of my fears of the unknown of what is to come on this adventure. This urban girl never strays too far from a spa, luxurious baths and all of the comforts of Western living.

Along with the necessary warrior energy one must develop through these tapasyan practices, we must also worship the great lovers – the infamous couple of Shiva and Parvati. This offers a perfect harmony within the spirit: that of love and power. And for me learning how to soften the heart and surrender to the great love is an energy I need to bow to as often as I can. Again this shrine/temple was in the middle of nowhere as far as I was concerned. It seemed strange to me that such an auspicious place was in such an unassuming location. It is hidden from the world – only to be found by those “in the know”. And not that I know much of anything, but lucky for us Rashek, our guide, was fully connected to show us the way.

At the top after visiting Shiva and Parvati's marriage site.

Now, armed with love and the warrior spirit we headed to Sonaprayag for a late lunch to nourish the body and soul before the long and I mean LONG trek. Little did I know this was the meal that would stain a very, long almost infinite walk. After the usual rice, dal, potatoes and chapatti we headed for the last stop for motor cars: Gorikund (2400 meters/6,560 feet) This is basically a huge parking lot full of pilgrims, buses, vans, SUV’s readying for the journey ahead. As we prepared our backpacks a light rain begins to fall. I knew we had 14 km (8.6 miles) which does not seem like a whole lot to walk at first but add: a 45 lb backpack, rain (and sometimes a downpour), plus climbing up an additional 5000 feet...those measly 14 km seem like 30 km. But again, none of this was computing in my mind as I was living the moment step by step following along with the plan and full of devotion.

Waterfalls, Altars, and Kalimath temple

A few more pictures from our trek!

The car altar.

Our driver offers a very quick prayer every time he starts the engine

oh so reassuring that all will be OK

After Kalimath temple puja ... All set to conquer the demons!!

(In my head)

Entrance to Kalimath temple

The roads we were driving on, waterfalls coming down everywhere -

some crossings were trickier then others

Pictures - first overnight stay

Road to kali temple

The morning restaurant stop

Our first overnight town

The morning chefs - parathas and chai for me!

Guptkashi

After yesterday’s long journey to reach a small village outside the hiking point of Kedarnath temple, I am full of angst and anticipation. Its good to be scared of the unknown I remind myself through meditation. Relax - all will be good. “What was I thinking?” You could have been on a beach in Goa, or stayed in the safety of Rishikesh...but no instead you are about to go deep inside the valley and trek some 14 K and sleep in a tent for two days, totally primitive inside the Himalayan with no running water, electricity, internet, hot water, warm food...you name it. Not sure of myself right about now.

Upon arrival last night at 7pm in our modest guest house I felt upgraded from last year’s journey as I received a huge bucket of hot water to bathe with, as opposed to last years trek of two small glasses of hot water...I was thrilled! So tired after our all-day car ride through miles of turns and curves I settle into bed and am deep in the land of dreams by 8pm - I prefer the early morning here best anyways. Plus after Ratio (our amazing guide) informs me that we are in the woods for three days, two nights my mind goes numb and I have to sleep.

Now onto our Indian staff.

Our driver, Kalyan Singh, is very quiet because he does not speak english but we manage to communicate as I have to ride shotgun with the two boys in the back (Scott and Rashik) to avoid complete car sickness. We jam to Indian tunes (hilarious) that sometimes sound like American songs I know. I am comforted by the fact that even though we've had 108 near misses of head on collisions with huge trucks and vans we make it by I swear because ever temple, shrine we pass performs the familiar gesture of touching your heart and third eye (very similar to the Catholic gesture) and that comforts me. I soon join as two is better then one.

Our guide, rakesh kumar, which I've met for the first time has been mountaineering for 15+ years and actually graduated from a special school in Darjeeling! Oh good I think because this guy is totally in control and as I share with him I RARELY ever let anyone be in control - so he better have it together. He shares oh so many storied on the way! He is well versed in all Hindu mythology and even though Scott just gets overwhelmed by all the names each diety has he listens attentively. He pulls on his non-existent head of hair just to keep up and figure it out. I smile and understand - but I've been following the stories longer.

This morning I sit on the rooftop after my sadhana thinking, wow you've raised the bar this year. So this is what happens when you plan a journey like this in 5 days and don't have time to process what to do.

All of India is just one huge altar I determine.

Pictures!

A misty ganga early in the morning. She looks mystical and surreal.

I begin my journey with early meditation and yoga on the banks of Ma Ganga in front of Parmath Niketan Ashram.

She is roaring from the monsoon rains! I've never seen her so fierce and full.

Another fantastic view!

No matter how remote the village the children leave for school at 6:30 am with pressed, bright uniforms ... first prayer at temple, then school -- all happy, singing, chanting in bliss and not one video game in sight.

Imagine that!

My bucket of water - a true spa experience here in the Himalayas.

I have a great system ... for now to wash my long hair :) this will be the last "shower" for 3 days. Hmmm good thing I brought tons of wipes.

Our days leading up to India

So I must backtrack before continuing with present moment. Though I offered details of our departure and arrival I neglected to provide these details:
1. Prior to leading the 2 yoga retreats I anticipated coming early to India for personal retreat time to an area that I have been trying to get to for over 10 years (since I started studying Yoga): Kashmir and the Indus Valley area to experience the roots of Yogic History.
2. Those plans were foiled when the Kashmirians decided to begin fighting for independence and hijacking tourist vehicles. Pankaj (my Indian travel guru put a stop to those plans).
3. We then aborted those plans and decided to head straight to Leh and Laddakh to trek and explore the few remaining Tibetan communities left on the planet since Tibet no longer exists on the map as Evil China (the new axis of evil) decided to massacre Tibetans. We were flying into the highest airport on the planet at over 11,000 feet elevation! .
4. 5 days before our departure we get news that a bizarre cloud storm dumped more rain then ever in that area killing 200+, injuring 400+ and destroying the roads, runways etc.
5. I am beginning to wonder if I meant to go to India. Could that really be?? This is my spiritual land. Should I re-route and take retreat elsewhere?
6. Spontaneously I am also internally chanting and hearing Om Namah Shivaya. Every meditation comes back to that. Then I remember that last year I had Kedarnath treks all planned out to visit the 5 holy sites if Shiva.
7. Without even researching or doing my regular Pitta planning I email Pankaj and set the wheels in motion 3 days before departure to plan out the trek. I am so ill prepared in some ways. Or many ways.

And, so with his enthusiastic and prompt reply all is set for us to go. This is a good sign.
But the final sign that Lord Shiva was beckoning me was leaving from Gate 108 to board the flight to India. And at this moment I knew all would be taken care of.

More tomorrow .... So tired we drove 6 hours\200 KM if that is an indication of the dangerous road conditions, hair pin turns and all the ingredients of driving through the first layer of Himalayan mountains!

Rishikesh

Auspicious day for our arrival. Landed in Delhi Thursday night after what I believe to be the worst 14 hours one could ever hope to spend on a plane. surrounded (no joke) by screaming children on all sides - there was not one move, one ipod track, nor double earplugs that would subdue the noise of screaming children. the tagged team their sleep so at any given point you could hear one of those pesky little children crying and screaming. did i mention i am not a crazy about children? i think we all know that.

but on to the good parts.

Landed in Delhi with seamless customs experience (much unlike my Canada escapades) and after the expected cab ride with the driver that does not speak english and has no idea where our hotel is (because we are staying at the brand new Hilton), we arrived to luxury and cool air-conditioning! But even better were the surprise treats in the room - fruit and delightful chocolates. this is my kind of places .. who told them i love chocolate ?

After a good night's rest and pool relaxation we headed to the airport with very little time to spare. We arrived at 2:15 pm and our flight was leaving at 3 pm. no one really stresses about time here, scott and i are freaking out - but scott much more then me as i have done this before here many times and for some reason here in india the most populated country in the world the domestic airports sure do a good job at being relaxed around late comers. So after 6 security check points and much confidence there will be no bombs on this flight we board the flight to Dehra Dun (nearest airpot to Rishikesh).

So here I sit back again to my favorite internet station offering my first India encounter. Upon landing, Pankaj, my dear Indian friend, tour guide and savior - greeted in full ceremony. Flower upon arrival and wait what else ???? LIMCA ... yes the best, most refreshing drink on the planet that you can only find in india. now i am in heaven = back home.

After a quick stop to get my favorite Himalaya products and Ayurvedic herbs we head to our new hotel - raj palace. now this is where i really begin to feel like a celebrity. As soon as we pull up the my friends at the hotel are outside waiting to greet us - fresh pineapple juice, ceremonial kum kum, more flowers .... and wait walk up the stairs and a HUGE BANNER with my picture welcoming me - what ?

and then my room fully decorated with flower, ghee lamps burning - oh so sweet. all this for me? really. i had no idea how much i was missed.

so with that i leave this post as pankaj is waiting for me to plan out tomorrow journey toward Kedarnath - the very sacred, holy Shiva temple and did I mention that August is Shiva month here in India. Yeap! that's why the goddess decided i could not go to Leh as originally planned because this is where i need to be the entire time.

stay tuned. look for pics on facebook.