Sunday, September 4, 2011

Rishikesh

Wednesday August 31st

I am happy to report that traveling from Pune to Rishikesh was smooth and easy and quite organized much to mysurprise. So you see that’s the beauty of India – NEVER, EVER assume. I was very concerned about my 45 minute transfer in Delhi. As going through security again in Delhi in 20 minutes was not going to be easy, but I was ready to give it my best, relaxed shot!

As soon as we landed they announced that passengers transferring to Dehradun and some other city please see attendant upon exiting plane. I announced I was going to Dehradun and I was asked to wait on the bridge. Five minutes later we are escorted out of the bridge to a side staircase and onto a bus. The bus weaves around the parked planes and viola there we are to step off the bus and ont our next flight. Very VIP I thought. As soon as I exit the bus the airlines representative confirms I have 2 pieces of luggage to be transferred - I enthusiastically agree, full of surprise at this level of organization and attention. Love Kingfisher Airlines ! I am one of the first to board the plane and feeling like some special attaché or diplomat I sit and wait for the rest of the passengers to arrive. Love it!

As always I am greeted by Pankaj upon arrival with flowers, Limca and mung dal snacks. We arrive in Rishikesh and the fun continues. This year Govind and Sunil, my dear friends, have graciously offered me my own apartment which happens to be vacant in the building where they all live. Greeted by the entire family I receive my apartment orientation and am made feel very welcome. I know I am in for quite the experience living with an entire Indian family. Maybe this time I will finally learn how to puton my own sari and the secret ways of Indian cooking!


Photos of my Apartment :

Thursday, September 1, 2011

Excursions in Pune

This was my first visit to Pune and it was surprisingly cool as I was prepared for lots of heat. With three days to go until Ganesha Chaturdashi festival, the city was brimming with excitement and preparation. There were stages, banners and light being erected every 25 steps. Everywhere you turn you see Ganesha. Ganesha chants just spontaneously were coming through me.

The monsoon hit Pune hard my first two days which made sightseeing impossible but nonetheless I ventured out to visit Dr Lad’s clinic. We met at 6 pm as the his private clinic is only open from 6 to 9 pm. It was a sweet reunion for me but most importantly to see the very place where he can practice freely and authentically was a magical experience for me. To see his patients in the waiting room arriving one by one and not by appointment but simply by just showing up and waiting for the proper turn. It was such luxury to have so much of his time to ask my questions and discuss future projects not like his hectic and fast paced schedule in the US. There I also met Vitala, a student of 8 years from the Ukraine, who offered to take me book shopping and show me around the area.

So the following day we met at 1 pm in front of the clinic which was bustling with people running to and fro as it was the first day of no rain in a long time. We made our way to our first book shop which was basically a very small shack with a counter and hundreds of books piled, stacked and lining the walls. I was thankful for my list as the smiling Indian lady behind the counter did not know English but she knew enough to read my list and miraculously know exactly where each book was placed. This is a perfect example of disordered order. I could have stayed there forever as she allowed to come behind the counter and randomly select the books that seemed of interest to me. This is what I considered Ayurvedic heaven – every book on Ayurveda you could possibly ever want right here. I had to control myself as I might just bring down the entire plane with the weight of my future luggage. The saving point – lunch time. She had to go to lunch. Literally closing the door behind she sent us off.

When it comes to shopping for specialized books in Pune there isn’t a one stop shop. Of course not. You have to be in the know to find these obscure books shops where the shopkeeper retrieves the books for you – it’s very much like going to the Library of Congress where you are not allowed to get a book of the shelf – you have to have your book list ready and a librarian retrieves it for you. The beauty is that if one book shop does not have the book you are looking for then they send you somewhere else. And so that is how are day proceeded being led from one shop to another in search of each and very book. I report a nearly successful mission and the two books not available I knew I would be able to find in Rikshikesh! Vitala returned to the clinic and I took the opportunity to go sari shopping. Pune was my chance to acquire some nice sari’s and Kurtas that I knew I would not find in the North. Luckily my expert shopping skills and ability to find just the right stores has not boundaries across the planet. I found the perfect shop where I could just sit and have dozens and I am not joking dozens of saris and kurtas brought to me for my liking and perusal. With 3 saris and 5 kurtas in hand (they were having a sale !), I was festival ready to head up North to my favorite place in the whole world Rishikesh !!!

Tuesday, August 30, 2011

Kerala to Pune

Kerala

Greetings from the Divine land of Kerala! For me there is nothing more rejuvenating for my body and nervous system thenn decompressing and surrendering to the love and healing of Kerala’s Ayurvedic magical treatments and positive spirit. Though I tend to live my life so that I am not depleted and
generally sustain very good Ayurvedic practices that are fortifying and nourishing, I think I forget what my nervous system feels like when completely relaxed.

It’s only been 9 months since I was last here and I am amazed at how quickly my body can store tension and stress. I am reminded how my body, muscles and cells absorb anxiety, tension, and stress. With each day that passes, I can feel myself return back to my natural
state of ease and relaxation; thus, why these treatments are designed to nourish and support the body in a consecutive manner rather then used as simple one-time spa treatment. Here lies the major difference in receivinga randomAbhyanga massage that feels good, to soon thereafter find yourself on the iPhone or Blackberry versus melting into daily rejuvenation in a relaxed setting where your phone does not work!


Pune


My travels to Pune reminded me of the wonders of traveling in India. My strong Pitta nature is

slowly being stripped away until I am just naked in surrender. First stop was Kerala airport. Not

sure why I haven’t learned yet to not question when you’re given an answer that you know doesnot make sense. I was told “no problem, you can carry on liquid – no restrictions”. So happily Idecided to carry on all of the Kerala goodies I purchased – oils, special herbal decoctions, ear andeye drops … you name it I bought it and stuffed into my backpack.Something to note about traveling in Indian airports – they will check your boarding pass at least9 times until you are literally on the plane and in your seat. Sometimes one guard checks yourboarding pass to then pass it to another guard literally 6 inches in distance until it is returnedback to you. And all of this begins at the entry door to the terminal.Layover in Bangalore. Very nice, modern airport. However, not modern enough to have allowed transfer passengers to stay in the secure zone to make a simple plane transfer. Instead you are dumped back in baggage claim and have to find your way back to security to re-enter the airport. You’ve got to be kidding me. Breath out – again.

I make it through with 45 minutes until my next flight and so of course there’s time for someairport shopping. Love to buy books at Indian airports as they are so cheap! With three books inhand I walk toward my gate. At first I think it’s a vision but then I realize oh no …. there aresparrows flying all over the airport. How did they get through security I wonder? These birds are
going crazy snacking on the crumbs left by passengers at the nearby café and NO ONE is the least bit phased. I can’t believe my eyes. There is a woman just sitting at her table with birds all around
her tray and there she sits watching the birds eat (see picture). Hilarious. I quickly think of my mom and how she would be freaking out over the viruses and bacteria these birds are carrying
and everyone is just OK with it. I smile.


I sit down and order some rice because as they say when in Rome … and so I feed the birds (see

video). In all this excitement I glance down and notice the time – Oh crap my flight leaves in 15minutes! I run to the gate – empty. Not a person or agent in sight. I can’t even see the plane.What?? Are you kidding me? Did I just miss my flight feeding the birds? Ridiculous. I glance in the distance and see movement on the other side and quickly walk over. Of course, typical theychanged the gate. All is good. I should know better then to expect the gate to stay the same.
I now relax into my seat until I am called to the front of the plane – something is wrong with my
luggage. What? They ask me about some small backpack because it is leaking. What is inside? Isthere some strange chemical as it smells funny - Ayurvedic medicine I say. Oh! They radio downand say OK put it back in the plane. Shit – there go my precious herbs. Back to the seat and quicklyopen one of my new books trying to forget and not worry about the condition of my backpack.Landing in Pune we are greeted by dogs chasing the plane on each side – seriously. Dogs runningalongside the plane - now how did they get through security? Really this is all too bizarre.

Monday, September 20, 2010

Jai Hanuman - no rain!

A night rain free … we awoke with deep hopes and enthusiasm. Jai Hanuman! Today was our big sightseeing day of Yoshimath. I had no idea there were so many juicy temples to visit. After a small stroll down the very busy main street to browse in the local shops we began the temple tour.

Today is Monday, the day for Lord Shiva, and since August is also Shiva month it was a very important day in temple. It is also the last Monday that is celebrated within this holy month. Our first stop Shankaracharya Math. This is a most important place as this is where the first Shankaracharya, Philosopher/Saint, lived in meditation as an incarnation of Lord Shiva. He is a revered figure and savior of Indian’s Sanatam Darsan.


We also visited a temple where the Sixth Incarnation of Vishnu as Narshima came to defeat a terrible Demon, Hirnyakashayap who was brutalizing the kingdom for worshiping anyone other then him. So at this very place it is said that Narshima defeated this demon. So it was here that I made my offerings to release that which is negative and destructive in my life that is leading me away from the path of Truth and Light. Afterwards we took a short drive further into the mountains to a natural sulfur spring and the hopes of seeing the famous Nanda Devi Peak(next year’s trekking site). It could have been semi-anti climactic but the drive as always was full of adventure. The short 10 km drive took us 40 minutes as we had to negotiate narrow passes and areas to heavy with mud from landslides that the car miraculously made it without begin stuck. There were workers busily trying to shovel (yes shovel) the 3 feet of mud that covered the road and huge boulders were being hacked with a pick axe … what could have taken 20 minutes in the US with heavy machinery will take days here with manual labor but as Rakesh pointed out this offers many work thats need and these machines as I put it would render many without work and so once again my Western impositions never serve anyone! Upon reaching the spring – there it was on the side of the road … very unassuming spewing out very hot water releasing steam hot and wide enough to give us all steam facials!



Hot Spring


But that was not the magic for me … the magical part was that upon parking the car to see this natural wonder a rainbow formed just a few feet away. Clear as can be I could see both the beginning and end of the rainbow and as followed one end from the mountainside the other end fell into the Dhauli Ganga originating in Tibet.

my rainbow!


This road ends in the mountain range separating Tibet and India, which is now China and why there is such a strong military presence due to the China’s constant attack and infiltration into the mountain range. China apparently is not happy enough to have massacred the Tibetans and taken their land as now they continue to push further into the Himalayan Mountain range. I could continue with all the rage and hate I have against China and their evil ways but I won’t mar this delightful blog. Rakesh told us that before the road and passage between India and Tibet was a very friendly border and one could easily just go back and forth but now all China wants to do is fight! No surprise there. The rainbow was breathtaking and a good omen of sunny days to come!


End of the rainbow

Sunday, September 19, 2010

Continuing our trek

Today was rather uneventful in the traveling department as we needed just one day of no movement- and hanging out at the rest house was all but boring. We spent the day living the simple, relaxed mountain life. Very rejuvenating! I actually read a novel by one of my favorite authors – Robert Ludlum purchased on my new I-Pad and enjoyed watching the staff chase the local horse that would come trampling through the manicured lawn and eat the grass all day long.


Later that night we found out that a school in the adjacent village had fallen off the cliff due to heavy rains causing a mud slide … Om Namah Shivaya ~ 18 children died. This is all crazier then I could have ever imagined.


The journey continues. Due to heavy rain fall and tricky road conditions we had to abandon our plans for 2 intense treks in to the mountain that would put us away from any villages living in tents and living purely in nature. It was a bummer but if there’s anything I have learned in India is not to attach to plans, time and how you think things should go. This wonderful land teaches you that this moment is what you have and don’t waste it or wish for it to be different because if you do it will surely turn against you like a great big demon. So I surrendered and let Scott and Rakesh make plans for our last 4 days. We departed for the mountain town of Auli where there is a Ski Resort. I had vision of an Indian Squaw Valley … haha! That is humorous beyond. But Scott and I had a good time wishing and wondering what an Indian ski lodge looks like. Rakesh was excited as this area will offer grandiose views of many peaks and one in particular –Nanda Devi Peak which will be next year’s destination. It is also near Yoshimath a holy Vishnu temple is here and also close to Valley of Flowers and Bradinath. We are going further North very close to the China – Indian border and this was all to evident as we approached and noticed a considerable military presence, training mountaineering camps and stations.


At first, Rakesh suggested we stay in what he believed to be nice huts. Well the word hut already made me suspicious but I went along with it. At this point my high maintenance urban desires are somewhat diminished but just a slither of luxury like a clean room, no musty rugs is all I am asking for. The car could not make it all the way up to where the huts where and I felt this was a sign – on the outside they did not look very promising at all. Behind us I noticed that there was some sort of ski lodge hotel. This looked much more promising. So I took matters into my control and walked over to the hotel to check things out. Of course the outside always looks much fancier then the inside – I laughed knowing that this is typical of India ... nice shiny outside but not so shiny on the inside. So in this large complex we settled in and literally are the ONLY people staying here. It rained all night ~ strong rains poured down. I prayed and prayed please let the sun shine through tomorrow morning.


The rain had subsided to a soft drizzle by early morning and eagerly I awoke to prepare to visit the small, not so ancient Hanuman temple that was a short hike up the mountain. As I walked outside I could see the peaks peering out over the horizon as the clouds rolled by past me. Thrilled to find myself all alone, not a priest or pilgrim in site I made my way in and sat before Hanuman in meditation and mantra. For the first time I was able to worship in private, in my very own temple. It was here I realized that I need Hanuman to blow the clouds away; He will surely rally to the cause. Oh Hanuman with you big heart and strong chest blow these clouds and rain North, far, far away.


At breakfast the sun started to come through and there was a glimmer of hope for us! Yes, maybe today will be a rain free day. I am an avid sun worshiper (Suryanarayan) and from there we all realized that Hanuman was the man and the Hanuman Chalisa was chanted full-on! We waited 2 hours for the sun to continue to break through and dry things up a bit so we could hike around this mountaintop.


We gathered ready for the climb and Rakesh brought a new device to help my trekking efforts … a walking stick. Hmm, I have never use a walking stick before. I am either concerned for what’s ahead or maybe this is just something to divert my attention.

The terrain was less then easy to maneuver, as it was wet, muddy and streams abundantly flowed in all directions. We were making our way to a meadow. Not sure where that was but I followed along. I soon realized the walking stick was going to be my savior from falling on the very muddy ground below me. A new epiphany about myself – I am clean FREAK! Really, I had no idea how obsessed I am about being neat and clean. I know some of you already had that figured out, but I amused myself trying not to muddy my pants and today of all days I had the brilliant idea of wearing my new keane’s as I knew there was water to negotiate. However, my mind never computed the mud that would enter through the openings. I grew increasingly frustrated by the fact that my feet were squishy and muddy and my wonderful bright orange be present pants were turning brown and yucky. I kept trying to be neat and pristine as I maneuvered each step but I soon realized my terrible neurosis and how it was really working against me.

So once again, I had to relinquish this control to be neat and pretty and surrender to nature and just be muddy and dirty. Through surrender I could release myself and be peaceful deep inside the forest where the trees, leaves, ferns were moist, vibrant with life. I found myself inside a fuzzy green forest wonderland, an enchanted forest: the lush foliage, the sounds so alive, earth grounding and cooling. We never made it all the way to the meadow as negotiating the non train was difficult at best and after two hours I knew the return would not be so amazing and my Pitta hunger was starting in and that in itself was not going to make for a happy descent back to home base. Satisfied with our adventure we turned around and headed back to our hotel and now it was already 3 pm and I was starving!


We are the only ones still in the hotel – comical and eerie at the same time – I had a bit of a meltdown when we returned and the staff had not gone to the market to pick up food supplies for our meals. Hungry, muddy, dirty, and tired does not make this Spa Girl happy at all! So I stomped off after sharing my frustation with everyone, allowed the hot water shower to pour over my body and searched for my emergency power bars. At that point, a very shaken and mortified Rakesh peered through my door and told me that the staff had magically conjured up some snacks and by tonight I would have all menu items available for ordering. I apologized for my deranged Pitta state but he understood and once I explained I was not mad at him at all – we were all best friends again.

Wednesday, September 15, 2010

Tuganath – 3rd Kedar

This morning we headed for another long hike up the mountain to areas that are unreachable once the Himalayan snows set in. We drove through the Kedarnath National Forest to reach our destination as our car weaved through precarious terrain I marveled at the pristine Himalyan forest all round me. We reached the customary chai stand at which our driver released us into what seemed to me the wild of the jungle. I don’t question much while here I just put my trust I God and Rakesh and follow along.


Tuganath Temple

Truthfully I am not feeling so energized, I had no idea why I just felt so tired and winded and absolutely exhausted. The site that we are trekking to is one of the most revered sites by the great ages and Rishis beyond our time. This is the very place that Swami Rama’s guru left his body! Yet part of me just wants to give up within the first 10 steps. Here I am navigating a very muddy landscape, not trail in site just mud, streams and rocks and wondering how I am going to make this 12 km hike.


But alas! A rock trail appears upon the horizon – glorious. There are other pilgrims on this trail – but very few and not a dropping of shit or donkeys in sight to negotiate. Through the rain we continue and again this trail uphill was extremely strenuous. I could not understand, as I was not carrying a backpack, why my heart was beating wildly in my chest, lungs gasping for air and mind going wild with rage and disappointment. Am I this out of shape –really? Again, can’t the sun come out just for one second … please?


Steadily I persevered and learned a very important lesson: the heavier my thoughts the heavier the walk, the more internal resistance I cultivate the heavier my legs will feel. So be light, breathe steady and peacefully and allow your mind to be light … look around and see the beauty that surrounds you there is not other place like this in the world.


Upon reaching the top the rain increased and the last 20 steps were so steep that we decided to dry off inside one of the small chai tents and wait for the rain to subdue before making our offerings at the temple. As we sit I observe and ponder how these devotees just live here in the middle of the mountain – no running water, electricity, heat so simply and happy. Everyone literally blessed out. Is it the lack of oxygen, the hashish they like to smoke or just God crazy? They set up camp every year after the winter/snow season is over. They bring their cattle, set up homes , just to break it all down and head back down the mountain when the snow comes.


I also made friends with the cutest Himalayan dog ever. I really want to bring one of these dogs back with me as they are amazing and adorable. They wear collars with spikes on them to fight the leopards, foxes - you name it, to protect the sheep, cattle and themselves. They are fierce and endearing all at the same time.


But bringing one home is not possible as Rakesh told me they cannot survive in lower altitudes or hot weather – they just die. Oh so sad! This is their home and where they belong. Another lesson: you can’t deny culture and nature.


After my pakora 101 cooking class!